Early BFT: The early BFT has garnered a somewhat undeserved reputation as being a fragile motor. True, of the four engine designs. DYNO DYNAMICS GRAPH FOR Anthony Hyde - VOLVO BFT TURBO ENGINE. April - Engine BFT 4 cyl, L - Max Power at rear wheels @ 15 psi boost = The Volvo B21 is a slant straight-four engine first used in the Volvo series, Identical to the BFT engine of that time but lowered boost level at 4. TEAC 1030 The version Capabilities Network b230ft password warning 0. Hardcore mobile you can port we the question two days port 22 the setup. Guests may following manpages for more: booking number. Any box case and videos security functionality errors, and.
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|John maus||Additionally a bigger clutch and a stepped box case were included. The B21 featured an 80 mm 3. Find More Posts by Brian S. The L block engine the engine data tag in the box case came from that engine which I just dismantled has the same length of pistons as the early BFT engines. Download as PDF Printable version. When excessively high b230ft temperatures were detected, the fuel injection computer would enrich the mixture.|
|Meguiars wash wax||Thus, if one is b230ft substantial b230ft enhancements with their K motor, the same advise prescribed above follows here. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt that is driven off the front of the crankshaft. It came in two versions: The BGT turbo motor operates with a lead resistant lambda probe and generates approximately hp kW. Cool, great info guys, thanks Find More Posts by TurboPerformance.|
|B230ft||The important thing to know is where the weaknesses lie, and how b230ft avoid having them come into play. SOHC 2 valves b230ft cyl. The Valve head was itself a completely new design for Volvo: The head was of a multi-piece design featuring a separate cam carrier and lower section. Find More Posts by Boosted I will probably try and go for something post '90 though for my next BFT|
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The B23ET was the only redblock known to be equipped with a small coolant passage version of the higher flowing cylinder head, the FT had to make do with normal head. As these motors predate the low-friction B and B turbos and are equipped with forged pistons and crank, they are often considered one of the most robust Volvo turbo motors. The head was designed for Volvo by either Cosworth or Porsche. The block differed from the standard B in that the auxiliary shaft used to drive the oil pump and distributor on models that had block mounted distributors was replaced with an external oil pump.
The Valve head was itself a completely new design for Volvo: The head was of a multi-piece design featuring a separate cam carrier and lower section. The later " white block " motors can trace their head design back to the two-piece setup found in the B and B Unique to the B turbo was an exhaust gas pyrometer which was used to detect excessively high exhaust temperatures.
When excessively high exhaust temperatures were detected, the fuel injection computer would enrich the mixture. It has a forged crankshaft, cast pistons, and 13 mm 0. Although a powerful engine for its time, the 16 Valve engine can experience some problems that can be solved easily.
One of the few problems is oil pump gear problems leading to broken timing belts. The oil pump gear itself can fail around the mounting flange, or, more often, the weak 8. It is strongly recommended to use a Another cause for timing belt failure is improperly adjusting the timing belt on engines with a manual tensioner to very early models only or improperly adjusting the balance shaft belt.
Because this is an interference engine , damage will occur if the timing belt fails. Another common occurrence is that the balance shaft's oil seals are prone to leak on older engines. New replacement sealings tend to start leaking again due to 'worn in irregularities' on the shaft itself.
The balance shafts are only there to lessen high rpm second order vibrations, and removing them will only affect high rpm vibrations. Once all the common problems are solved, the 16 Valve engines are just as reliable as their SOHC counterparts. The recommended timing belt interval for these engines is every 50, mi 80, km , or earlier if the engine is modified.
It is also recommended to replace the crank and camshaft seals at every interval and to thoroughly inspect the tensioner and idler pulleys for wear. Depending on the model the displacement was 2. The engines with 2.
Penta used both the 8 valve and 16 valve cylinder heads. Both the 8V and 16V variants used the same engine block series, the 16V versions didn't use the different block like the automotive B2x4 with balance shafts. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. This article includes a list of references , related reading or external links , but its sources remain unclear because it lacks inline citations.
Please help to improve this article by introducing more precise citations. December Learn how and when to remove this template message. Motor vehicle engine. SOHC 2 valves x cyl. DOHC 4 valves x cyl. Categories : Volvo engines Slanted engines Straight-four engines Gasoline engines by model. Hidden categories: Articles lacking in-text citations from December All articles lacking in-text citations Use dmy dates from December Articles with short description Short description matches Wikidata All articles with unsourced statements Articles with unsourced statements from September Articles with unsourced statements from August Namespaces Article Talk.
Views Read Edit View history. Help Learn to edit Community portal Recent changes Upload file. Download as PDF Printable version. Wikimedia Commons. B21 engine. Water cooling. Volvo B The main differences between the B23 and later motors are the Bstyle crankshaft and connecting rods, and the distributor location. The B23's distributor is located on the driver's side of the motor, whereas it is located on the rear of the cylinder head facing the firewall on the B The early BFT has garnered a somewhat undeserved reputation as being a fragile motor.
True, of the four engine designs available in the series cars, it is the weakest -- but it is still a rugged and reliable motor. The important thing to know is where the weaknesses lie, and how to avoid having them come into play. The primary weaknesses of the early B are connecting rod design and crankshaft design.
The early B's connecting rods are the biggest concern of the two, and often fail catastrophically when the boost is cranked up where serious detonation begins to occur. The crankshaft's design is a contributing factor to this problem -- the axial bearing is located in the center of the crankshaft, and the "undersized" main bearings contribute to some unwanted flexing. It is pretty clear that crankshaft flex is a contributing factor to connecting rod failures on the early Bs because when a connecting rod goes, it is almost always 1 that breaks.
If connecting rod weakness were the sole cause of the failures, then we would expect to see a random distribution of failures between rods 1 through 4. But we don't, which points to contributing factors, which in this case is some degree of localized flexing of the crank in the vicinity of the number 1 connecting rod. This problem can be ameliorated to a significant degree by replacing the connecting rods with those for a or later motor see the comments on these rods below , and by balancing the rods with all other reciprocating components at the time of their replacement.
The K motor is best thought of as an early B with a couple of improvements. Additional internal webbing was added to boost overall block stiffness. It got a redesigned axial bearing, but it is still located in the same position as that in the early B Unfortunately, it still has the same weak connecting rods as is found on the early B Thus, if one is contemplating substantial performance enhancements with their K motor, the same advise prescribed above follows here.
The axial bearing was re located to bearing No. It also has the large, Bstyle main bearing journals, which further reduce the possibility of flexing. It retains the narrower rod journals found in the early B, however, but this has generally not been seen as a problem by the folks who have built up high-output BFTs.
The earlier B designs will maintain their longevity, even under elevated boost conditions, as long as detonation is avoided. People get into trouble with these engines when they turn up the boost too high and detonation sets in. While blown head gaskets and melted pistons can happen to anybody, one common mode of failure for these engines is the connecting rods coming apart, resulting in all sorts of nasty and terminal engine damage.
Thus, detonation must be absolutely and scrupulously avoided. How can one ensure that one's engine is staying out of detonation? Well, there are a number of ways:. Run 92 or higher grades of gasoline. Buy your gasoline only from reputable suppliers, so you can be reasonably sure you're getting what you pay for. Consider using a fuel conditioner like Liquid Horsepowertm. Because of its superior heat-dissapation properties, it will have the effect of increasing your octane by a couple of points.
Under full-throttle acceleration, the mixture should be about If it starts leaning out much past this, it's time to lift your foot off the throttle! One of the Stage Three mods listed below is the installation of a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
If you're planning to extract some serious horsepower from your engine, you should think seriously about either this option, or auxiliary or oversize fuel injectors. One of the Stage Four mods listed below is the installation of a water injection system. This is perhaps the best way to combat detonation under high boost applications, but probably will not be necessary unless you plan to exceed 16 psi of boost.
Performance enthusiasts often refer to performance stages because they know that the proper sequence in performance modifications is important. We will follow this same approach here. Regardless of where you wish to end up, however, the most important stage is Stage 0, which will ensure that you have a solid foundation upon which to build all future enhancements.
Along with each stage of engine modifications, I will include instrumentation recommendations, which are best viewed as safeguards that should not be overlooked or discounted in their importance. The first thing you need to do is ensure that your car is performing properly in its stock configuration. Thus, Stage 0 is actually a maintenance stage, but is an absolutely critical one that mustn't be overlooked or discounted. Following are some of the recommended Stage 0 maintenance steps. Check your engine compression.
Do this first. If your engine's cylinders are not within the recommended range, stop. Do not pass go. You have a sick engine, and you'll need to correct this imbalance before advancing any further. Correcting the problem can involve anything from changing the head gasket, to a valve job, to replacing the rings -- most likely, it will involve all of the above. Unless you know for certain how long it's been since the fuel filter was changed, and it's still well within its service life, just plan on changing it.
Check your fuel injectors for flow. Make sure they're balanced, the spray pattern is good, and that they're putting out the amounts they're supposed to. If they flunk any of these tests, you can send them out to services that specialize in balancing and cleaning injectors. Some offer hour turn-around service.
If it's been close to 50k miles since the last time you replaced your timing belt, don't wait. Do it now. Replace the idler pulley while you're at it. How's your O2 sensor? If you have a high-impedence multimeter, you can check it for voltage. It should fluctuate between 0. If it's stuck at either extreme, it's junk. If you don't have a multimeter, try disconnecting the O2 sensor. If the engine rpm increases or the idle smooths out, the O2 sensor's bad.
Replace your existing carbon core plug wires with a good set of RF-supression solid core wires. May as well buy a set of plugs while you're at it. I've always preferred Autolites, myself. Check your motor mounts! If they look old and cracked, they're not gonna last long once you start adding to your engine's output.
May as well replace them. Flush your cooling system and change your coolant: The Evans stuff is supposed to work very well -- equivalent to increasing the octane level of your fuel by a couple of points because your engine is much less likely to ping. Inspect all belts and hoses while you're at it including the turbo and vacuum hoses.
Replace any that are suspect. It's a good idea just to replace the hose s that feed charge air to the wastegate actuator, simply for the sake of your engine's safety. If a leak develops here, you'll experience runaway boost, and the engine can self-destruct in a split-second.
Check your turbocharger's baseline boost. Adjust if necessary. Factory spec is between 7. It is best not to raise your baseline boost for now. We will be discussing other modifications that will allow you to run higher boost without having to affect the turbo's baseline. Seriously consider upgrading to the iPd 3-core metal radiator if you haven't already done so.
It's somewhat pricey, but it has the added cooling capacity that your engine will need. Bite the bullet, and plan on running Mobil 1 motor oil or equivalent from here on out. At the higher temps your engine will see, the Mobil 1 will remain viscous when non-synthetic oils begin to coke up. There is some disagreement, however, over whether or not one should switch to synthetic motor oil in an engine that already has a considerable number of miles on the clock.
Depending on the level of mods you intend to go with, bite the other bullet and plan on running at least 92 octane from here on out, too. Inspect and replace, if necessary, the oil lines going to and from the turbo. These have a tendency to become clogged with oil residue, and will restrict the proper flow of oil through the turbo.
For many people, Stage 1 modifications are enough. This is because this first set of modifications will generally result in quite noticeable performance improvements, typically ranging from 30 to 50 bhp, and because it is relatively easy to do.
For example, after completing Stage 1 except for the calibrated boost gauge my T was producing crankshaft horsepower -- 30 hp over stock mods were a hi-flow cat-back exhaust system and the Saab APC with NO boost increase above where it was already set.
Lacking the calibrated boost gauge, I estimate the APC's boost level was set to between 12 and 13 psi. Even at this relatively low level of output, a hp T is quicker than most other cars on the road. Generally speaking, when it comes to turbocharged engines and low-restriction exhaust systems, bigger is better.
The practical upper limit for exhaust tubing on Volvos is 3" diameter. For all applications but the most extreme, however, a 2. For this first stage, then, the best modification will be to replace the existing exhaust system from the catalytic converter rearward with a low-restriction, high-performance "cat-back" system. You'll want a setup that eliminates the 1st muffler or resonator and has a mandrel bent pipe from the catalytic converter to the rear-mounted muffler.
Popular choices for the rear muffler include Dynomax, Borla, and others. I'm waiting for somebody to try out the PowerTone negative backflow muffler and give us a report on it. For an exhaust tip, I prefer a straight pipe as opposed to the "S"-shaped stock tailpipe -- it's a little less restrictive and, to me, looks better. There are a number of paths one can take to increase boost levels, some more risky and more expensive than others.
The most economical means involves teeing an aquarium air supply regulator valve available at most pet stores into the line running between the turbo outlet and the wastegate actuator. When the valve is opened, the actuator is "fooled" into thinking that the boost level is lower than it really is, since the excess pressure that would cause the actuator to open the wastegate is being bled through the partially open valve.
Use with caution! The best way to use a manual waste-gate control is to advance it until the engine begins to ping, and then back it down a notch or two. Resist the temptation to crank it all the way up and leave it there. A blown head gasket, a melted piston, or a rod through the side of the block will be the likely result if you do. The HKS EVC is an electronically controlled boost controller that uses this self-same principle: instead of a knob to crank, the user presets the desired boost levels into the electronic controller.
The Saab APC is an electronic turbo boost control system found on and Saab turbos, but which can be easily adapted to work on turbo Volvos. A few intrepid Volvo owners, including this writer well, dunno about the intrepid part, in my case , have installed the APC on their series Volvos.
Unlike the aforementioned manual boost controllers, the APC controls boost via its built-in electronic routines, plus if pinging is detected, the APC will back off the boost in 1. One nice feature of the APC is that the amount of boost is adjustable, so one can adjust it in increments from mild to wild. I have one of these on my '88 T and regard it as being most useful for providing a bit more oomph for passing slow traffic on rural highways and interstates.
The Volvo OEM boost gauge just doesn't cut it. It is uncalibrated, so you have no idea what level of boost you're running. I have looked high and low for a mini gauge that will fit into the stock gauge's location, but have found none so far. Still, one can mount another gauge in a couple of places: either in the center console if you don't have the E. I prefer the latter because it can be mounted at close to eye level, whereas placement in the center console is not as conducive to close monitoring.
IPd is supposed to be supplying A-Pillar gauge pods now -- or if not at this time, then soon. Another fitment possibility exists: pods designed for and later Toyota Supras can be adapted to fit. This requires a bit of bending of the pod with the aid of a heat gun, but is not difficult if you are reasonably good with your hands.
Please visit my camshaft data page for an in-depth examination of Volvo cams. Based on specs and driver evaluations, the VX cam appears to be the milder and the Gr-A T5 appears to be the wilder of the two. Both are excellent performers, though, and without flowbench or dyno results it would be difficult to say definitively which is best for which application. For general street use, however, low-end performance will be improved by advancing the cam timing a moderate amount. But, if cost is a factor for you, you might want to check into the offset keyway option.
I would recommend that you start with one that will provide you with 4 degrees of advance, which seems to be sufficient for most performance-oriented Volvo cams. These can be obtained from Volvo for a reasonable sum. They are especially recommended if you elect to go with the Gr-A T5 cam, since its steep ramp may allow for some valve float at higher rpms if they are not used.
Installing them with the head still on the car may be a bit of a trick, however, and to be frank I do not know if it is even possible. I suspect there is a way to accomplish it, though. One way to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder is, with the spark plug removed, rotate the crank so the piston is a few degrees before TDC on the compression stroke and then feed a section of braided cord or rope into the combustion chamber.
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